Newsletter #32

December 16, 2002

By Katie Gardner

Old Man Winter can be rough on your skin. This is the season when ailments like eczema and psoriasis flare up, while your face and hands--the parts of your body most often exposed to harsh winter air--can easily become dry and chapped. But if you start by giving your skin a little extra TLC and protection now, it will remain soft and healthy all winter long.

Skin depends on water and oil to remain moist. The skin's oil, or sebaceous, glands produce a substance called sebum. When sebum is released onto the surface of the skin, it creates an oil layer. The oil protects your skin and helps slow the evaporation of water. In winter, however, the air can become so dry that this natural protection cannot always keep your skin sufficiently moist.

"Skin feels drier in winter because of the lack of humidity in the air, primarily due to the hot, dry atmosphere inside, and the lack of water in the skin," says Stephen B. Webster, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, clinical professor at the University of Minnesota Medical School, and assistant clinical professor at the University of Wisconsin Medical School. "When air humidity drops below 50 or 60 percent, water will leave the skin. In winter, indoor humidity usually is 5 to 10 percent. Outside air is also drier this time of year."

Use a humidifier, or at least keep pots of water on your radiators to increase moisture levels. Get an inexpensive humidity gauge so that the air doesn't become too moist, causing mold and mildew. (If your windows fog up, that's a sign that the indoor air may be too humid.)

Although your skin's own oils are not affected by cold air, they can be damaged by hot water and harsh soaps, which strip oils and leave skin without its natural protection. Winter is the season when most of us tend to take longer--and hotter-- showers and baths. To protect your body's natural oils, wash with warm water instead. And use natural emollient-rich soaps and cleansers that won't strip your skin.

The alkalinity of soaps and cleansers can change the pH level of the skin. This weakens its natural oil barrier, making it more vulnerable to irritation and dryness. So be sure to rinse your skin thoroughly after washing.

Toners can rebalance pH levels and clear skin of soap residue. Use toners that contain aloe or water, which are close to the skin's natural pH and can quickly restore acid levels. Also look for herbs like witch hazel, with antiseptic properties, and chamomile, to calm irritated skin. If skin is dry, avoid topical products that contain alcohol.

"Mass-market formulations and manufacturing methods create bar and liquid soaps that can be drying and irritating," says Larry Plesent, founder and CEO of Vermont Soapworks. "Artificial colors, fragrance, and preservatives can irritate skin, and leave it vulnerable to chapping."

For extra dry skin, Plesent recommends natural handmade, cold-pressed bar soaps that are made without alcohol or sulfates. Also avoid soaps with sodium hydroxide residue (or free alkalai).

Whether you prefer a bar or liquid soap, avoid products with artificial colors, preservatives, and fragrances, as well as harsh detergents (like ammonium lauryl sulfate). Look instead for a vegetable-based soap that contains shea butter or olive, jojoba, palm, or coconut oil to nourish skin. Products with calendula and aloe can soothe and heal dry, chapped skin.

Moisturizing your skin is a must if you want to prevent dryness. Use moisturizers that contain water and vegetable oils. Water provides necessary hydration, while oils help hold moisture in skin. Vegetable oils are important because they are safely absorbed into skin to nourish the deeper layers of the dermis. Try moisturizers with almond, sesame, avocado, or borage oils.

Also look for products that contain humectants such as hyaluronic acid and essential oil of palmarosa. humectants help hydrate skin by attracting moisture to skin. To help moisturizers and lotions better hold water in your skin, apply them immediately after washing, while skin is still moist. To protect skin even further, reapply your moisturizer before going outside.

It's important to exfoliate in the winter and all year long. You want to remove dead skin cells that block pores and impede the release of sebum. Exfoliate with cleansing products and masks that contain alpha and beta hydroxy acids, including fruit acids and extracts such as citrus, apple, bilberry, and black currant. Sugar cane extract, which contains glycolic acid, can gently remove dead cells. Avoid abrasive scrubs that can damage dry skin.

And don't forget sun protection. "Sun exposure is cumulative, so damage occurs in winter as well as in summer," says Dr. Webster. "Snow reflects light, making it possible to get a bad burn in winter, particularly for skiers and people who work outdoors." Use sunscreen with an SPF of 15 for daily wear, and higher protection if you are outdoors for extended periods of time.

Also, look for skin-care products with Pycnogenol, or French maritime pine bark. This powerful antioxidant helps protect skin from photoaging caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, while enhancing microcirculation of tiny capillaries in the skin and supporting hydration. A recent human study finds that taking Pycnogenol supplements also helps protect the skin from sunburn.

To keep skin healthy, eat foods rich in essential fatty acids (EFAs). Fish and ground flaxseed are high in omega-3 EFAs. EFA supplements (evening primrose or flaxseed oil) and beta carotene are helpful if you think you may not be getting enough in your diet. Tomatoes, carrots, and green leafy vegetables are high in carotenoids, nutrients needed for skin cell regeneration. Finally, drinking plenty of water helps to keep skin hydrated.

Eczema, or dermatitis (a group of inflammatory skin conditions), and psoriasis (an immune-mediated

Inflammatory disease characterized by silver-white scales) both require extra care in winter. French

Maritime pine bark, or Pycnogenol, can inhibit skin inflammation, according to in vitro research.

Natural creams with borage and evening primrose oils, both high in essential fatty acids (EFAs),

Help curb outbreaks of eczema and psoriasis. German chamomile cream soothes and helps heal these skin conditions.

Since diet affects both conditions, consult a nutritionist or healhcare practitioner for foods and supplements that bring relief. Herbs like burdock, coleus (forskolin), and Oregon grape root can be taken internally for eczema, while goldenseal, milk thistle, and Oregon grape root are recommended herbal medicines for psoriasis.

Items on sale at Honeycomb Natural Foods through December 31, 2002

Insure Herbal - 4oz.

Regular Price----$21.95…………………Sale Price----$14.79

Regular Price----$37.75………………….Sale Price----$27.99

Regular Price----$29.99……………………Sale Price----$21.99

Regular Price----$15.95……………………...Sale Price----$10.99

Chocolate or Vanilla - 22.2 oz.

Regular Price----$13.99………………………Sale Price----$9.49

Green Tea or Green Tea Jasmine - 20 bags

Regular Price----$3.39………………………..Sale Price----$1.99

Regular Price----$2.49………………………..Sale Price----$1.79